Nizza Docg, three questions with Gianni Fabrizio
The zonation of Nizza DOCG, carried out by Alessandro Masnaghetti, was presented last February 24th in Nizza Monferrato and hailed as a fundamental and necessary work.
Fundamental because it is literally the foundation of knowledge about the appellation. All future research and understanding of this terroir will begin here. Necessary because the value of a wine is directly correlated to its zonation, and the understanding of its terroir. As the French have continuously taught us, studying and mapping out a territory increases the value of the wine as consumers learn and appreciate the nuances of the various wines produced in the territory. These nuances, especially in Piedmont, directly correspond with the prestige and reputation of a wine.
A growing Appellation
Nizza DOCG is quickly proving to be a wealth of excellence in Piedmont wines and many people are beginning to focus their attention on it. Since obtaining its Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (DOCG) in 2014, production has continuosly grown. What was 800, 000 bottles produced at the end of the 2017 vintage is expected to surpass 1.2 million bottles as almost 9000 hectolitres will be produced. This is quite the jump in production in both bottles and vineyards, specifically vineyards of barbera as the Nizza appellation requires 100% Barbera aged for a minimum of 18 months, at least 6 months of which in wooden barrels. From less than 100 hectares of vineyards before 2014, the appellation has grown to more than 196 hectares today with a 100% increase of vines planted in the last two years and winemakers in the Langhe clamouring for any chance to purchase vineyards in the area. The Associazione Produttori del Nizza, which began in 2002 with Michele Chiarlo as the first president has grown from 15 members to 51.
Three questions with Gianni Fabrizio
To truly learn the hows and whys of Nizza DOCG’s impressive growth and unique ability to differentiate itself, we spoke with Gianni Fabrizio, the great connoisseur of Monferrato and Barbera, a true friend of Nizza and the curator of the Gambero Rosso guide.
Gianni, along with Nizza, there are two other subzones of Barbera: Tinella and Colli Astiani. How come they have not been as successful in promoting these in the same way as Nizza?
Gianni Fabrizio
Nizza is the only subzone within Barbera d’Asti that has found the strength in promotion to emerge and grow into a DOCG of its own right. This is primarily due to two reasons. On the one hand there is the extraordinary commitment of the Associazione Produttori del Nizza, which thanks to the dedication from people like Tullio Mussa, Michele Chiarlo and Giuliano Noè, has carried out the groundbreaking discourse on the territory necessary so that other producers can learn its importance. On the other hand, it is in large part due to the number of wineries involved. Nizza is the only subzone that is presented by numerous wineries, some of which carry enormous prestige. These actions combined has dramatically increased the quality and reputation of Nizza and have pushed for the political and economic emancipation of the appellation while continuing to remain an evocative zone of Barbera d’Asti.
Where does this vocation derive from?
It is historical as well as qualitative. First of all, the wineries in the Nizza territory have long histories, often over hundreds of years old. These are wineries that have been integral in the adventure of revitalizing Barbera d’Asti to its former splendor, even when many saw it as doomed. Even more, though, is that the Nizza zone benefits from a qualitative homogeneity, the grapes produced here have always grown well and fetch higher prices. But above all, and I insist greatly on this point, Nizza has been able to count on a territory unified under the flag of valourization. Winemakers, wine shops, restaurants, enologists and many others in the industry have believed, without fail, in the merits of the appellation, that is deserved DOCG status and that it could be appreciated on its own, independent of other appellations.
Now that Masnaghetti’s map has been published, how do we move forward without losing the work and positions already acquired?
I see two paths. The first is storytelling. Just as Burgundy continues to fascinate the world with the stories of its crus, Nizza must follow their lead and tell the stories of the characteristics and nuances underlined in the zonation. The second is the ‘practice of naming.’ My hope is that all winemakers will begin using the name of the cru where they made their wine in a systemic way. This would result in a little healthy competition; wineries that want to increase their prestige will have to work hard to make wines that stand out from the rest. A third aspect, which will only happen over time, is that consumers will create a natural hierarchy that will enrich Nizza and the surrounding areas with even more attention and stories to tell.